If you have a Wurlitzer 200 or 200A model, you may have noticed that the very top five notes (G#6-C7) do not dampen and freely sustain. This is because there are no dampers on these top five notes. It is completely normal and nothing to worry about. On these top notes there is a small […]

This is common problem with Wurlitzer electric pianos which is often attributed to a defect in wiring or another electrical issue. Much more often it is because a reed is misaligned in the reed bar, causing it to touch the pickup. This creates a short or grounding, and can cause hiss, pops, bangs, and sometimes […]

What makes Wurlitzers unique in the electric piano world is that they have a built in amplifier that generates the sound. This means that the electronics are a major part of servicing these instruments. Because of the power this draws Wurlitzers are connected to mains electricity and have live voltage running through it. This means […]

The way a Rhodes makes a tone is similar to a tuning fork – where two ends of a metal fork vibrate to produce a frequency. On a Rhodes specifically, instead of two ends the same size there is a larger tone bar and a smaller wire-like tine. Due to their weight these form the […]

One of the limitations of the Rhodes is when the pedal is down and when a key is repeatedly played the note can often deaden or ‘choke’. this is because when the tine is struck by the hammer the tine vibrates in a up and down motion, and when the hammer strikes the tine at […]

Understanding the process: Out of the ‘big 3’ vintage electric pianos (Rhodes, Wurlitzer, and Clavinet), the tuning method on a Wurlitzer piano is the most unique. Wurlitzers are like Rhodes in the sense that the tuning usually last a very long time. Where they differ is that the process of tuning a note is much […]

Yes! Adjusting the keys, or key leveling as we call it, is the process of adjusting the key heights and depth (called key-dip) of the white and black keys of the piano. It is the same process as with a regular piano – we use paper shims or punchings to set the correct height of […]

This is a very common problem with Wurlitzers and could be due to many things. Here is a list of the most likely culprits: ⁃ The hum shield (the case that covers the hammers and is designed to prevent buzzing) is not set properly. Readjusting this can fix the problem. ⁃ Loose screws – a […]

This is often to do with the solder or ‘lead’ that is applied to the reeds to adjust the tuning. It often happens in the tenor register in the F F# G range below middle C. The solution is usually to replace the solder on the reed. If not this then it could be the […]

You can adjust the intensity but not the rate, you’ll need a tremolo pedal for that. On the circuit board is an adjustment for vibrato (strictly speaking ‘tremolo’). Be careful to unplug everything and switch all the power off before you adjust as you can easily get an electric shock from the circuitry of a […]

It is likely that the yarn that mutes the strings in the non-speaking length of the string is not dampening properly. The solution is to either remove the yarn and replace it, or to remove it at use Clavigel; which is a more modern dampening mechanism created by Vibe Vibe

Out of all the electoacoustic pianos, this is the most simple to tune. Below the keys is a rail they can be removed to reveal the tuning pegs that the strings are wrapped around. By using a flat head screwdriver on the screw at a right angle to the tuning leg, you can adjust the […]

This is a common issue that affects all Rhodes pianos at some point. This could be one of a number of issues, here are some places to start: (Note: if unsure of any of these terms, consult the Glossary.) Remove the lid and inspect the harp where the problem is Rhodes lids are easy to remove, in […]